Flat Water First…
Ridiculous as it sounds, the best way to get into the surf is to thoroughly prepare on flat water first! To ride a wave you need to be standing in surf stance (both feet on the centreline, facing across the board, with the front foot up near the handle and back foot towards the tail). If the first time you ever try this is in the surf, it won’t end well – whereas if, on flat water, you get completely comfortable effortlessly moving your feet around on the board from ‘square’ to ‘surf stance’ without effecting your stroke or altering the trim of the board, you’ll be much better off when you have to do it ‘in anger’ in a wavey environment.
There’s plenty more you can do on flat water too (particularly if you don’t live near regular surf, it really will maximise the precious time you do get to spend in the waves). Step-back turns are of course great training for SUPsurfing. The turn itself is almost secondary though: most importantly, get used to using your hips to shift your weight backwards and forwards – on a wave, it’s front foot to accelerate, back foot to turn. Also in surf stance, practice accelerating from a standstill with your weight forward over that front foot, taking good deep strokes at a nice high cadence (rate / tempo) – this is how you’ll paddle for and therefore catch a wave.
Draw strokes and j-strokes can be really useful in the surf too, to help you keep paddling straight without changing sides. And solid reverse-sweep turns are invaluable to for positioning, plus paddle-slaps and skim-recoveries to brace yourself against and stay upright. All of this should be done on your chosen waveboard too, so you’re completely confident on it. Quite literally, childish as it may sound, pretend you’re turning onto and paddling for waves – this visualisation will really help when it comes to doing the real thing.
Where & When To Try SUP Surfing?
Knowing how to find suitable surf conditions is a real art, that can take a lifetime to learn – but of course these days there are dedicated websites and apps that offer a shortcut! Even with a perfect forecast at just the right spot, the tide and weather will have an impact on the surf: for example, low tide might mean ‘dumpy’ hollow waves that are very hard to ride, and/or high tide may mean no breaking waves at all, or just a suicidal shoredump. Meanwhile too much or the wrong direction of wind can ruin the surf. Different spots have different characteristics – and location knowledge will come experience.
To begin with you want a nice, gently breaking wave, ideally over sand in reasonably deep water, that’s not too busy. You absolutely don’t want to hit the most famous, popular, world-class break in the area: leave that to the shortboard surfers until you really really know what you’re doing!
Don’t fall into that trap of looking for big waves: you just want knee-high to waist-high surf that’ll be a lot of fun to ride when you get it right, but won’t be too punishing when you inevitably get it wrong. (Remember, a cubic metre of water weights a metric ton, which is a lot to have landing on your head!) So don’t hold out for big forecasts, look for maybe 1-2 or 2-3 feet of surf at a reasonably long ‘period’ (the time between each wave is a better indicator of quality than size: say 8 seconds+ ‘groundswell’ is much more predictable than choppy short-period sub-6-second ‘windswell’). You’re after the sort of waves that shortboard surfers really aren’t interested in – nice, mellow, fun-sized SUP surfing (or what the surf guidebooks may call ‘longboarding’) conditions. It could be you find them at the other end of the beach, or tucked around the next headland, from the well-known surfing line-ups.